August 1989
In the 1980s The New Yorker Magazine published a series of articles about Baja, California, Mexico as the party capital of the world. So in August 1989, I decided to take the plunge since I was hired as a teacher in El Centro, CA. Mexicali was both a sensory nightmare and blessing--at night in the clubs. But the first time is always the most memorable. I walked across on the train tracks. I remember seeing the tricolored flag waving in the dusty, sleepy Saturday afternoon. I felt very tall and white and out of place when I had to duck through the curios shops and those electrical wires hanging down dangerously in my cautious mind. Then came the huge buckets on pork frying in hot grease; the smell made me queasy. Young indigenous-looking girls giggled at me and I smiled back as I wiped the sweat from my hair, face, and back. I was an outsider. People spoke to me and expected me to understand them, but I did not. As I got to the cathedral, all of three blocks, I decided to turn back. Suddenly, i was overcome with the smell of leaded gasoline. As I walked back across the tracks, I heard the migra say on his radio, "I got him!!!" That was embarrassing and I felt like a criminal. He told me where the proper place was to cross and left it at that. He sped away in his Bronco to park on the tracks again. This all struck me as stupid, parking on the train tracks, but I didn't stop to tell him so. Later I discovered the clubs in Mexicali: Rock En Espanol, La gran compania, a jazz club, chics, and many more. Those places were a world away from the daytime, where young--thank God--women came out dressed better than Hollywood. After a few drinks, these young women were very willing to talk and share their lives. So not even a gringo can say too many bad things about Mexicali.
